Italy garners most of the attention. Tuscany? Check. Piedmont? Check. Good coverage from north to south? Check. Hey, where’s Val d’Aosta? Well like I said, it’s not all Italian. France. Spain. The US. Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and Lebanon. Switzerland and Lebanon? Well alright! New York wines also make a strong showing both by the glass and the bottle.

Yes, Il Buco’s wine list has a bit of all of it, including a downside. Value is not its strong point, a drawback that shows up most obviously in overpriced and underwhelming selections by the glass.